Other

WALL SAFES

A hole needs to be cut into the wall and the safe cemented into place. These safes are relatively easy to pry out as fixing is fairly superficial, hence the low insurance rating.

FREESTANDING SAFES

These safes usually come with a single base fixing point. Small low quality safes can be fitted by a competent DIY person, however, some insurance companies require that a safe is fitted by a qualified installer to maintain the correct insurance rating.

Safes can be bolted down to a wooden or concrete floor and in some cases, can be supplied with a side or rear fixing to secure to a solid wall (this generally must be an external wall as dividing walls between rooms are not deep enough).

If a safe is to be fitted within a cupboard and it has a false base (such as a fitted bedroom cupboard) there is usually a void between the base and the floor of the room. In most cases this is a fibreboard/woodchip, veneered panel, which is not a good medium to secure to or be able to support the weight of the safe. In this case, we either remove the base and place a piece of timber in the void (which is bolted to the floor) and then fix through the safe info the timber, or cut a hole in the base to complete the same process.

Taking safes up or down stairs can be problematic. The better the quality and the larger the safe, the heavier they become. The weight of the safe combined with the weight of the iinstallers and the quality of the stairs, precludes some installations. Turns on stairs can also cause issues especially when they are tight or narrow. Some upper floors may only be accessible by lift (weight capacity accepting) or external use of a crane, through a window.

UNDERFLOOR SAFES

As mentioned previously, these safes are sunk into the floor by digging a hole using a Kango hammer or construction of a frame where there is a void. The safe is placed into the hole and concrete poured around it.


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tel: 020 7405 1540       fax: 020 7405 1640       email: sales@independentsafes.co.uk
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